Tasteful antiques mix with dilapidated walls and a mesmerising painted ceiling. Bavarian and German classics, with ingredients hunted in forests and plucked from gardens are traditional and elegant, much like the interior. The restaurant (and guesthouse) opened in 1989 and has been the domain of head chef Oliver Egger ever since. In a mountain setting in the Oberallgäu region, near the Austrian border, the “Upper Mill” is in a former saw mill and manages to be both rustic and refined. Artworks are by Alicja Kwade, Kerim Seiler and Julius von Bismarck, and there are cocktails at the restaurant’s Tiger Bar. Familiar ingredients such as Arctic char, saddle of lamb and goulash are remixed into a changing carousel of fusion dishes elevated by creative sauces and sides such as ember-roast potatoes, chicory with hazelnut, and fermented vegetables. The creation of entrepreneur Ludwig Cramer-Klett, it’s a concept restaurant that draws inspiration from a 1970s German children’s travel-themed book, the menu taking German cuisine on a journey to exotic places. Standouts are fried croquettes of veal or lamb and the classic peixinhos da horta “little fish of the garden” – a tempura green bean.Īs the swish, art-filled interior suggests, this Berlin spot is not in thrall to tradition. It’s not fancy, but what it does, it does more than well. This is a casual restaurant and shop, but the cooking is among some of the best in the Alentejo region. He waxed lyrical about a puff pastry of partridge and a sopa fria – cold tomato soup dressed with strawberry, prawn and basil ice. My pal, Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes (owner of London’s Lisboeta), sent me to this great wee place years ago. Mains from €18.50, 10 moments menu €80, (vegetarian option available), AG The “10 moments” menu offers a taste of the best dishes and there’s a great-value set lunch for €10.50, with bread, starter, main course and a soft drink. Main courses include the stalwart goatling oven rice, with giblets bringing an intensity of flavour, and an unforgettable dessert of sweet curry, coconut, mango and lime. It’s stylish and warm, and the dishes do a dance between Portuguese classics and ones with a culinary twist, thanks to the ideas chef João Cura picked up while travelling in Asia with his wife Sofia, the restaurant manager. Mains from €10, Filita 42, tel +30 2695 024040 HFLĮveryone I’ve sent to this little restaurant adores it. It’s a popular spot with locals, so it’s wise to arrive early and bag one of the wonky wooden tables overlooking the street. Stathmos is justly famed for its kouneli stifado – chunks of rabbit marinated overnight in red wine vinegar, flash fried in olive oil and then slow-cooked in a garlicky tomato sauce. It may not have such spectacular views (although there are fine vistas of the tiny fishing port below), but chef Thanasis Sfougaris’s brine-fresh seafood dishes (onion and herb-stuffed grilled sardines cod fillets steamed in white wine and drizzled with a tangy caper sauce) more than make up for the lack of Insta fodder.įew give this hole-in-the-wall taverna housed in what was once Zante town’s bus station ( stathmos means bus stop) a second glance, but for hearty portions of luscious home-cooked food served up with a big dose of island colour, it can’t be beaten. Away from the tourist-heavy caldera area, To Psaraki is a clifftop taverna with a handful of check cloth-covered tables in Vlychada, on the island’s southern tip. Produce from milky-white aubergines to peach-sweet cherry tomatoes flourish in Santorini’s volcanic soil, but good food is not always easy to find on the island. Set among terraced vineyards cascading to the sea, the restaurant’s dining room in grey stone and powder blue tiles is my favourite place to eat bacio pantesco, the island’s signature sweet of ricotta-filled fried pastry sells. Osteria Il Principe e Il Pirata, PantelleriaĪt the eastern edge of Pantelleria, a Sicilian island visible from Tunisia, Osteria Il Principe e Il Pirata serves dishes merging flavours from volcanic land and tumultuous sea in specialties such as spaghetti with tuna bottarga, fennel and pistachio, and busiate pasta with sardines, fennel, raisins, pine nuts and fried breadcrumbs. I pair it all with an age-worthy white wine like those that have enticed connoisseurs to Irpinia for the better part of two millennia, or a pleasantly fruity red made by the proprietors’ son. I always follow this up with handmade cicatelli pasta with a bright tomato sauce spiked with a minty local herb, then roast grass-fed lamb. My order begins with a huge spread of regional starters such as frittata, salami made from local n ero casertano pigs, and fried courgette flowers. The Di Pietro family cook soulful dishes from Campania’s Irpinia region, a place so ancient the locals call themselves Samnites, after a pre-Roman tribe.
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